So-called straight razors are becoming increasingly popular among men. This tool has enough advantages: it does not irritate the skin, the shaving is high-quality, and the process itself is interesting and entertaining for men. A straight razor can easily compete with T-shaped razors and electric shavers.

There are two types of straight razors:

• classic straight razor;
• straight razor with replaceable blade.

Classic straight razor

A classic straight razor has two main parts - a blade and a handle. They are connected to each other with a small rivet. The handle has a slot for the blade, which allows you to fold the razor in half, which is very convenient - the blade will be protected during transportation. As a rule, plastic or wood is used to make handles, but there are exceptions. On custom straight razors, the handle may be made of ivory or another more expensive material. The blade, in turn, includes the following elements:

• work cloth (1);
• tongue (2);
• neck (3);
• blade (4);
• back (5);
• head (6);
• heel (7).

The blade of a straight razor consists of a working blade, tongue, neck, blade, back, head and heel

A straight razor with a replaceable blade (shavet) is similar in structure to a classic straight razor. The only difference is that this type has the ability to replace the blade. Many people find this option more convenient, since there is no need to sharpen the blade. For such a razor, blades that are used in conventional machines are quite suitable. An exception may be only some models, but their replacement parts are already included in the kit.

A straight razor whose blade can be replaced is called a shavette.

Table: rating of straight razor blades

Photo gallery: straight razor blades

Feather - the best company for the production of blades for shavetki
Parker - the most affordable straight razor blades
Dovo Shavette - good price/quality ratio

How to choose a straight razor

If you are new to working with a straight razor, then it is better to follow some tips that will help you not make the wrong choice.

Table: straight razor parameters

Parameter	Characteristic
Blade width	Blades can be wide or narrow. But a straight razor with a wide blade is quite heavy, and your hand can get tired quickly. A narrow blade is larger Suitable for experienced users, because it makes it more difficult to choose the right shaving angle. The best option is to use a 5/8 or 6/8 inch blade.
Concavity	The Feather curved blade razor is a beginner's choice. Despite the high cost of such a device, it is considered the most convenient and optimal.
Head	Give preference to a razor with a round head, it is less dangerous. The square head is more suitable for professionals.
Blade material	The blade is made of steel: stainless or carbon. Both materials have proven themselves well in the market.
Handle material	To understand which handle material to choose, hold the razor in your hands. Buy the one that fits most comfortably in your hand.
Manufacturer	It is believed that the best straight razors are made in Germany and France, so pay attention to manufacturers in these countries.

How to use a straight razor correctly

The main rule of use is that a straight razor must be sharp enough, otherwise you risk damaging your skin. Before you start the process, it’s worth practicing holding your guard correctly.

There are 3 ways to hold the machine:

1. We place the thumb on the neck, put the little finger on the tongue, and leave all the other fingers on the back of the razor.
2. The little finger is on the tongue, the thumb is on the back on the inside, and the remaining fingers are on the back on the outside.
3. We place the index and middle fingers on the back from the inside, place the ring and little fingers on the tongue, and hold the junction of the tongue with the canvas with our thumb.

Before you start using it, learn how to hold a straight razor correctly.

Rules for shaving with a straight razor

So, if you have learned how to hold the razor correctly in your hands, then you can move on to the stage of removing unwanted hair. There are tips to help you achieve the desired result:

1. Steam your face. You can take a warm shower or apply a towel previously soaked in hot water.
2. Soak your brush in a mug of hot water.
3. Lather your face with regular soap and use a brush to lather well the areas you are going to work with. Shaving gels and foams are not suitable if you use a straight razor.
4. While shaving, you need to stretch the skin with your middle and index fingers. It must be tightened before each movement of the razor. Make sure that your fingers are 2-3 cm from the blade.
5. The tension occurs in the direction opposite to the movement of the blade.
6. The angle between the skin and the straight razor should be approximately 30°.
7. Don't put pressure on the blade! This will cause skin irritation or cuts.
8. When shaving, only the hand should be mobile.
9. Try to shave with the central part of the blade, as it is the most controllable.
10. To ensure your face is perfectly smooth, you need to make at least 3 passes with the blade. The first pass along the hairline, first with short and jerky movements, then with longer strokes. The second and third are against hair growth. Don't forget to apply soapy water between passes.
11. You need to be especially careful in the area under your nose, because a sudden upward movement can lead to a serious cut.
12. After you've finished shaving, rinse off the lather with cool water.
13. Use a moisturizing aftershave lotion.

Video: how to shave with a straight razor correctly

It is interesting that in the 90s of the 20th century, a straight razor was considered a retro tool, a real exotic. But in the 21st century, interest in this device increased again, and more and more companies began to produce straight razors.

Are there age restrictions

Facial hair begins to appear in boys at a fairly early age. On average 12–16 years old. As soon as such a moment comes, young guys wonder what is the best way to get rid of unwanted hair. The most common option is a regular shaving machine. But it causes irritation and rashes on delicate youthful skin. Can I use a straight razor as a teenager? Of course, it is much less damaging to the skin, but you need to know how to handle it. It is not recommended for a young man who does not have much shaving experience to use a straight razor on his own.

Safety rules for shaving with a straight razor

To obtain a high-quality result without consequences, it is worth remembering safety precautions when using a straight razor. After all, the name of this machine speaks for itself, and if you neglect the rules, you can cause serious harm to your health.

How to protect yourself:

• do not apply soap suds to pimples and raised moles to avoid damaging them during shaving;
• Take care of your razor, otherwise it may become dull or rusty;
• do not use a straight razor if there is a defect on the blade;
• do not shave your face with a straight razor in a noisy environment, because any jolt or sudden movement can lead to injury;
• Never throw or twist your razor unnecessarily;
• Always keep hemostatic powder on hand; it is sold in pharmacies.

Care of a straight razor

If you want the “safety guard” to serve you as long as possible, then take good care of it. There is nothing complicated about this, the main rule is to minimize moisture getting on the blade. While shaving, do not rinse the razor under running water; it is better to remove any remaining foam using a waffle towel. And also exclude any mechanical damage. If a straight razor comes into contact with a hard surface, it may become damaged beyond repair. If you want to disinfect the blade, use alcohol or soap solution. Never apply acid to the razor or rinse it with hot water! A straight razor does not tolerate sudden changes in temperature. Such a tool should be stored in a dry place and place. The bathroom is not suitable for these purposes. Do not hide your straight razor in cases or covers, it needs to “breathe.” If desired, you can treat the blade with a special oil for preserving metal.

How to sharpen a straight razor at home

A straight razor tends to become dull. To return it to its original condition, you can contact a sharpening specialist. You can also sharpen the blade at home. There are two main ways to sharpen a straight razor:

• using a belt;
• using a stone.

How to sharpen a straight razor with a belt

If you own a straight razor, then having a sharpening belt is a must. The belt should be the width of your blade, in this case the surface will be processed more evenly. Straightening a razor using a belt has its own nuances:

• for every fiftieth pass of the razor on the leather part of the belt, there are 15 movements on the fabric part;
• the belt must be perfectly smooth, without bends or bumps;
• watch the belt tension, it should be strong.

Sharpening process:

1. Place the blade flat on the belt.
2. Pull the blade along the belt with the back facing forward.
3. Apply slight pressure to the blade as you work.
4. Having reached one edge of the belt, turn the razor over the back and start moving in the opposite direction.
5. Take your time during the process.

Video: straightening a straight razor on a belt

How to sharpen a straight razor with a stone

Sharpening a straight razor with a stone is carried out in case of serious damage to the blade; this procedure should not be carried out frequently. The operating algorithm is as follows:

1. Wear rubber gloves to protect your hands.
2. Wet your stone a little before working.
3. Place the blade flat on the stone and press it to the surface with your fingers.
4. Movements should take place along the stone.
5. When you reach the edge of the stone, turn the razor over the back and start moving in the opposite direction.
6. Don't press the blade too hard.

Video: how to sharpen a straight razor on a stone

Men shave at different intervals. For some, it is enough to shave off their hair once every 5-7 days, while others are forced to take care of their face twice a day. The stiffer the stubble, the more thoroughly it needs to be shaved. For owners of such hair, a conventional razor and electric razor are not suitable. It is almost impossible to shave cleanly with them, and stubble appears quite quickly. They scratch the skin and can cause inflammation. The only correct solution for such people is a straight razor.

If you have a perfectly sharpened, high-quality straight razor, or simply a “safety razor,” and you have mastered the shaving technique, then you can get rid of stubble for a long time. “Opaska” practically does not cause irritation and does not leave cuts. Of course, for this you need to use the correct shaving technique with a straight razor and practice a lot.

Close shaving is a rather complex, but at the same time intuitive procedure. To learn how to properly use such a tool, you need a lot of practice. And it’s better to immediately learn the correct technique to avoid mistakes and quickly master the necessary skills.

What are the main principles of a clean shave?

The sharper the razor, the less stubble

Blade sharpness is fundamental to proper straight razor shaving technique. A poorly sharpened blade does not cut stubble properly. They have to work with more force or at a sharper angle. All this only leads to skin irritation, the risk of cutting yourself and causes discomfort. But it does not guarantee a clean shave.

You need to shave so that the blade slides across your face. The “danger” must be at a strictly defined angle and must be moved in the right direction.

Basic ways to hold a razor

For those who want to understand how to shave with a straight razor, the first step is to learn how to hold it. There are three basic ways to hold a tool in your hand (Fig. 1):

Method one. The little finger is on the notch of the shank, the thumb is at the bottom of the neck and rests on the heel. The remaining fingers are on the top of the instrument.

Method two. The little finger is on the tail notch, the thumb is on the flat part of the earl on the inside, the other fingers, on the contrary, are on the outside. This technique is almost identical to the first, the differences are in the direction of the “fear”. In this method, the sting faces upward.

Method three. The razor tip points upward. The middle and index fingers are on the inside of the earl, the ring finger holds the inside of the shank, and the little finger is on the tail notch. The big one holds the butt where the shank connects to the blade. The handle of the safety guard should fit snugly against your wrist.

The last, third, technique, how to shave with a straight razor, is considered non-standard; it is not found in specialized literature for hairdressers and was invented empirically. But he is being used. It will be useful in cases where the first two methods cannot be used (for example, when hands block the view), and the “guard” should move “along the hair.” For those who plan to shave themselves, this technique is a must-learn.

When working with any of the shaving methods, you should remember the general rule: the “guard” should remove hair easily, it does not need to press hard.

Hair angle

Probably everyone knows that hair on the skin does not grow straight up, but at a certain angle. This angle is approximately the same for individual hairs that grow on the same area of ​​the skin. This is another important point to remember when working with caution.

How to properly stretch the skin

The technique of shaving with a straight razor requires necessarily tightening the skin of the face. It is pulled in the other direction from the direction of travel of the razor. Remember to tighten the skin near the blade before any new movement of the tool. The skin is stretched with one finger. It should lie 2-3 centimeters from the instrument. It is most convenient to use the index or middle finger of your left hand if you are shaving right-handed, or your right hand if you are left-handed.

It is clear that to work with “danger” you need to use both hands: one holds the tool, and the other is involved in stretching the skin. Without this, you won't be able to get a smooth shave. You can see how to properly tighten and how to shave with a straight razor on our page.

Procedure: a section of skin is stretched, a blade is placed, vegetation is cut off, the instrument is removed from the face. Next, a new section is stretched, a “guard” is applied, and the hair is cut off again.

Particular attention should be paid to those areas that do not have natural tension. For example, cheeks. Here you should be especially careful to stretch, otherwise there is a risk of injury.

Inclination and direction of the “danger”

The tool always moves with the head forward. You should make sure that he cuts the hair at an angle. This ensures an efficient and painless shave. The inclination of the blade to the surface of the face should be from 30 to 40° and no less.

It is not difficult to understand how to shave with a straight razor correctly: you need to work with the tool often and easily, without pressure, the hand is involved in the movement, the manipulations are rhythmic and light. This is the key to a smooth and clean shave. You cannot forcefully put pressure on the “safety” or “involve” your whole hand in the work. This will only lead to pulling out vegetation and, as a result, irritation and pain.

Basic straight razor shaving techniques

Preparatory stage

They begin to shave from the temple. It is difficult for beginners to immediately place the razor at the correct angle, so first it is better to lay the blade flat, and then slightly raise the back of the “guard” by 30–40°. Next, move the tool in the direction of shaving. This is done easily, without putting pressure on the skin. If the blade is sharp, it will cut hair without any problems.

Usually they shave in two steps. First, they pass the blade in the direction of hair growth (along the growth), and then vice versa (against the growth). In the first case, it is possible to get rid of the bulk of the hair, but tiny tips of hair remain on the skin. To get rid of them, they pass with a razor a second time. Before this, the face is washed again or moistened with warm water. After shaving again, the skin becomes perfectly smooth.

How to shave the right side of the face according to height

Shaving with a straight razor, as shown in the video, starts from the temple line, then the blade lowers to the cheek (Fig. 2, I-1). The instrument is held in the first way. Before starting, you should remove a little foam from the temple (to place the blade exactly along its edge). In the temple area, skin tightening and hair shaving are carried out simultaneously. With light manipulations the hands are shaved down the first couple of centimeters. Next, the “fear” moves to the lower jaw. Hair cutting must necessarily accompany skin tightening. The finger should be 1–2 centimeters from the “danger”.

In the middle of the cheek, the blade is slightly turned towards the lobe, and the “guard” moves towards the jaw (Fig. 2, I-2). It happens that in the corner of the jaw the hairs grow in different directions, in this case you should position the blade so that it shave according to the growth.

Having reached the bend of the jaw, the instrument is turned and continues moving down to the neck. In this place it is worth especially carefully cutting off the vegetation near the ear. Often there is a bulge or small folds of skin that are quite easy to hit with a blade and cut yourself. How to shave with a straight razor without getting injured? Use your thumb to push the ear a little to the side; if there are no folds, then when working near the ear you still need to close it a little with your hand.

Next, the instrument is taken in the third way. The “caution” is placed in the middle of the cheek so that its end lies below the cheekbone. This is how they shave, heading towards the lips. At the same time, passing along the jaw convexity and capturing a small part of the face in the area of ​​the mustache (Fig. 2, III-3). Approaching the corner of the mouth, the toe should be lowered a little lower so that it eventually matches the line of the mouth. Next, the blade passes in the area of ​​the so-called spicules (hair that grows near the lower lip). It is not always possible to shave them off the first time, since they are located in a small depression. In this case, a simple trick will help: you need to slightly lift this place with your tongue. A bulge will form that will be easy to shave off. How to do this while shaving with a straight razor is shown in. In the process, you always need to help yourself with your facial muscles and tongue. This makes shaving much easier and prevents injuries.

The third method is to cut the hair down to the center of the chin until the tip of the “guard” and the nose are in one line (it’s even better to move the razor a little further than this line). You should be especially careful in this area of ​​the face: the chin is difficult to shave, so you need to be careful.

Then the tool is taken using method No. 2 or No. 3 and the hair is cut from the chin to the lip (Fig. 2, II-III-4). Here you should be extremely careful and stop the “fear” in time. Otherwise, the blade will cut into the lower lip, which has a small protrusion. There are several areas on the face that are susceptible to injury: the Adam's apple, the ear and the lips. In these places you should shave with special attention.

The next stage is shaving the mustache. This is a difficult area: here the hair grows from top to bottom and, according to shaving rules, the blade should descend from the nose to the upper lip. But this is difficult to do, because the area of ​​skin is too small. There is also a high probability of hitting your lip and leaving a cut. How to shave with a straight razor in this case? Very simple. A person who shaves himself can help himself a little with his facial muscles and make the skin, where necessary, a little wider and smoother. Or pull the tip of the nose with your hand, in which case the skin will also stretch out and become smooth.

In the area of ​​the mustache, the “caution” is maintained using the first method. The hair is cut with light and short manipulations of the tool (Fig. 2, I–5).

The side part of the mustache is shaved from right to left (Fig. 2, III–6). Only the tip of the razor is involved in the work. The instrument is held in a third way. The blade goes to the middle of the mustache; if you shave higher, you can injure your upper lip.

Then the vegetation is cut off from the chin to the middle of the jaw (Fig. 2, I–7). “Apprehension” is maintained in the first way. Here the skin is stretched a little differently than usual: this time the skin is stretched in two directions. This is easy to do with two fingers. One is on the chin, and the second is on the jaw, the “fear” is between them. It should be borne in mind that in this case the skin becomes less elastic, which means the risk of injury increases. Therefore, at this stage you need to work with the tool easily, without pressure, and maintain the angle of cutting the hair. When going through this area, you should remove hair slightly lower than the jaw bone.

The final stage in shaving this part of the face is the neck (Fig. 2, I–8:10). Here it is worth paying special attention to the skin in the Adam's apple area, where cuts often occur. To avoid them, the following trick is used: the skin from the Adam's apple is pulled a little to the side and shaved there. The instrument is held in the second way.

When shaving “hair by hair”, you should monitor the quality of work. The face should be clean, without “bushes” of hair or unshaven areas.

How to shave the left side of the face according to height

The tool is taken in the first way. The safety toe is placed so that the hands do not interfere with the view. Shaving with a straight razor (this can be seen in the video) starts from the temple (Fig. 3, I–1). First you should shave 20-30 mm from the edging line. It is important that the cut lines on both sides are at the same level. To do this, it is convenient to navigate along the conditional eye line. The blade should rest on your temple approximately parallel to this guideline. From the temple, the “fear” goes down to the cheek.

Next, you should shave from the middle of the cheek down to the chin (Fig. 3, II–2). The “guard” is set slightly below the cheekbone so that the cutting edge creates a conventional line from the eye to the lobe. Along the path of the razor, hair is shaved off in the area of ​​the ear pads and the lower part of the left mustache. You should be “cautious” in the second way. If the blade cannot cover the entire soaped surface at once, then after the first pass with the razor, the procedure should be repeated, capturing the soaped areas.

During this stage of shaving, half of the mustache is shaved off. But sometimes this is not enough, and you need to help yourself by lifting the tip of your nose and removing hair (Fig. 3, I–3). In this case, the first method of holding the razor is used.

Based on the correct shaving technique with a straight razor, the next step is to trim the remaining hair in the mustache area. This is done from left to right with small advances of the razor. Vegetation is trimmed from the side in the direction of its growth. “Apprehension” is maintained in the second way (Fig. 3, II–4).

Then the blade is placed near the lobe and the hair towards the chin is removed (Fig. 3, II–5). The skin is stretched diagonally - up and towards the ear. If your face is thin, then shaving below the jaw only tightens the skin upward.

If during the first approach it is not possible to remove hair across the entire width of the area, then the procedure should be repeated again, but this time going through those places where soap “islands” remain.

Working with the right side of the face, it is possible to almost completely shave the area from the top of the chin to the lip. But if there is any unremoved hair left there, now is the time to remove it. “Opaska” is taken using method No. 2 or No. 3 and the vegetation is removed (Fig. 3, II–III–6).

Next you should move on to shaving your neck. First, they pass the blade from the chin to the Adam's apple, going around it on the left side. You cannot shave the Adam's apple itself; as mentioned above, this can cause cuts. You need to pull the skin to the side and only then remove the hair. Then the remaining areas of the neck are shaved. In one approach, a narrow strip of hair should be shaved (Fig. 3, I–8:10), the razor is placed in the lower part of the jaw and moved until the end of the hairline. “Apprehension” is maintained in the first way.

Sometimes the hair at the very bottom of the neck grows in the opposite direction - from bottom to top. How to shave with a straight razor here: you need to change the direction of the tool, and you need to take it with the second move.

How to shave the right side of the face against height

Repeated shaving is necessary to shave off those remaining hairs that remain after the first stage of the procedure. And also so that the skin becomes perfectly smooth and clean-shaven.

Before shaving again, be sure to lather your face again. For people whose stubble is not too hard, you can simply moisten your face with warm water. But such a procedure must be done.

When shaving with a straight razor, as follows from the video, the “guard” moves against the growth of vegetation. Stubble removal starts from the neck and ends near the temples. Work on the right side of the face is done only in the third way. While shaving the stubble, the skin is also stretched in the direction opposite to the direction of the razor (Fig. 4).

So, first you should pass the razor over the right side of the neck (the one below the ear) from bottom to top, then you need to smoothly move to the cheek. For people with a thin face, the best place to go is near the ear, behind the corner of the lower jaw. Those who have a full face can cross anywhere.

Having finished working on the cheek, the razor rises to the temple. Then again, from the cheek, the “caution” moves to the chin. At the same time, the stubble from the lower part of the right mustache and around the corner of the mouth is removed.

At the end of the procedure, you need to shave off the stubble on your neck. As at the very beginning, the instrument should move upward, from the Adam's apple to the chin.

How to shave the left side of the face against height

This part of the face is also re-lathered or moisturized with warm water. The left side is shaved only with the second method.

The sequence of passing with caution is similar to shaving the right side (Fig. 5). First, the blade is led upward from the neck, around the corner of the jaw near the lobe and directed towards the temple. Next, from the middle of the cheeks, draw the razor to the chin. Then the left mustache, hair around the corner of the mouth and the top of the chin are shaved off. Finally, the razor passes the neck from bottom to top, to the jaw bone.

If two parts of the face are shaved, the final step is to remove the hair above and below the lips again. In the area of ​​the mustache, the “warm” moves “along the hair,” that is, from top to bottom. Under the lip - shaves from bottom to top. During the procedure, the razor is held in the second way.

If, after repeated shaving, “islands” of hair still remain, they are lathered again and cut off against hair growth.

From the article above, it became clear how to shave with a straight razor. To do this correctly, get smooth, clean-shaven skin and avoid injury, you should remember the basic rules:

• learn basic ways to hold an instrument in your hand;
• remove hair only from a certain angle;
• the blade should always be as sharp as possible;
• First, walk the tool in the direction of hair growth, and then in the opposite direction.

Shaving is carried out in different ways - with disposable machines, etc. It is with the last tool that you can achieve maximum quality and smooth skin that is impossible to achieve with other methods. But working with it is not easy and, as its name implies, dangerous. In some countries, hairdressers need a special certificate to use this tool.

The straight razor is a classic of the stylist genre

Conditions for a good shave - good sharpening

The basis of a good close shave is a sharp razor. It must be made of durable metal and not have bends or deformations. It is important to maintain its maximum sharpness. If it is not sharpened too well, it will become difficult for the master to work with it. To obtain a high-quality result, you will have to hold it at a very sharp angle to the skin.

This leads to discomfort and irritation in the client. It also increases the likelihood of scratches. Therefore, entrust regular sharpening of your razor to a professional. He will not only sharpen it sharply and evenly, but also at the right angle.

Razor sharpness: you can change the blades, but it’s better to sharpen them correctly

To understand whether your tool is well sharpened or whether it has become dull during operation, you need to know a few rules.

1. The sharpness of the razor cannot be checked visually;
2. The test is popular. The razor is fixed on. Hair falls smoothly and softly onto it from above, perpendicular to the blade. If it only touched the blade, but broke into two parts, then the sharpening was done correctly;
3. Experienced craftsmen can check the sharpness with their finger, but this method is not recommended for beginners, since cuts cannot be avoided.

You need to shave a straight razor using a belt using a special paste. At the same time, you need to hold it at a certain angle to the belt. This is a rather complex and specific process. But every master should learn it, since straightening a straight razor with a large flow of clients must be done quite often.

WATCH VIDEO INSTRUCTIONS

How to hold the instrument correctly

There are two correct ways to hold a straight razor. Sometimes there are more of them, but the rest are only a variety or derivative of the main ones.

• Basic method. We hold the tool in the right hand (or left hand for left-handers). The blade faces down, the handle faces up. The thumb rests on the bottom of the razor, to the left of the cutting edge, closer to the heel. The little finger rests on the unsharpened edge, at the end of the razor, behind the junction with the case. The remaining fingers are on the unsharpened edge;
• Second method. We take the instrument in our dominant hand. The blade is turned up, the handle is turned down. The little finger is under the tail, behind the screw securing it to the case. The thumb is on the inside of the unsharpened edge with notches, all other fingers are on the outside.

The second method is considered more convenient. But each master must choose it individually.

Inclination of bristles

All hair on the body grows at a certain angle to the surface of the skin. This angle is approximately equal for identical hairs growing on the same part of the body. This is an important fact to consider when shaving. In particular, when moving the razor, when tilting it and when pulling the skin.

Tensioning the leather belt

To shave properly with a straight razor, you need to know how to properly stretch the skin. It must be tightened every time the tool moves in the direction opposite to the movement of the blade. Place your finger 1.5 - 2 cm from the cutting edge and move it by pressing on the skin. Use the index finger of your non-dominant hand (i.e. the hand that is not holding the razor).

Tool angle: even if you have Solingen, the rules are the same for everyone

The instrument moves with the head forward, in short movements, strictly on the stretched area of ​​the skin. To keep the skin smooth and the quality of work high, hold the razor at an angle to the surface of the skin of 30 - 40 degrees. If the angle turns out to be even sharper, so much the better. Movements are smooth and frequent.

This shaving will take place with maximum comfort for the client and convenience for the master. This reduces the likelihood of scratches and injuries.

Correct shaving technique with a straight razor: instructions for men

You need to use a straight razor according to specific instructions. The face is processed in several stages, which must be followed. This will allow you to get the best result combined with speed of work and comfort for the client.

The instrument must be sterilized after use on a previous client and placed in a separate box. Before using it again, it must be treated with an antiseptic. Some craftsmen use antiseptic repeatedly during the work process.

Before shaving

The beard or stubble is lathered with a shaving brush. The technician pours a glass of warm or hot water and places the razor there for a few seconds (the working surface of the tool). This is done so that it warms up and the manipulations do not cause discomfort, goosebumps or a desire to shudder in the client. All this interferes with the process.

It only takes a few seconds for the instrument to reach a comfortable temperature.

Shaving the right side

When learning to shave with a straight razor, it always starts on the right side of the client's face. Some masters start with the left, as it is more convenient for them.

• The first movement is directed from the temple down, parallel to the cheekbone;
• The second movement is along the angle of the lower jaw;
• The third is above the second, from the center of the cheek down towards the chin;
• Fourth - from the chin up to the lip;
• Fifth – three movements along the mustache area above the upper lip;
• The sixth is on the side of the lip, starts slightly to the right of the corner of the lips, moves towards the zone of the fifth movement;
• Seventh - from the chin to the corner of the lower jaw along the edge of the face;
• The eighth, ninth and tenth are three movements along the neck from top to bottom.

During the entire process, the facial skin should stretch.

Shaving the left side

The technique of shaving with a straight razor involves a different way of working with the left side of the face. This is due to the fact that for most craftsmen their own hands greatly obscure their view.

1. The first movement is from the temple down, as on the right;
2. The second movement - on the cheek - is similar to the third on the right;
3. Third - three short movements above the upper lip;
4. Fourth - from the place to the right of the corner of the lips to the mustache area and from the same place down to the chin;
5. Fifth - a series of movements along the line of the lower jaw, from its angle to the chin;
6. Sixth – Along the chin to the lip, from bottom to top;
7. Seventh, eighth, ninth, tenth - a series of movements from the chin and jaw line down to the neck.

No matter how sharp the razor is, after such a shave, the hair growth will still remain remnants of stubble. To eliminate them, shaving again is carried out against the growth.

Second stage

Starts on the right. The first movement is along the neck, closer to the ear, from bottom to top. The second is along the angle of the lower jaw to the temple. Third - from the jaw up. Fourth - from the jaw to the ear. Fifth - from the jaw to the chin. Next, the chin itself and the area on the side of it, towards the mustache line, are shaved. After this, shave again the area under the lower lip and neck, moving from bottom to top, i.e., against hair growth.

On the left, you also start from the neck. Then, in three movements from bottom to top, shave your cheek. The fifth movement starts from the corner of the lips down the chin, the sixth - from the same area up to the nose. Then the area under the lower lip and neck is shaved.

After the procedure

Wipe off any foam from the skin with a towel. Now wash your face with cool water. When skin is prone to irritation, use a warm compress with a damp towel for a few minutes.

Close shaving is a whole complex of events, be prepared for them

Now apply any aftershave care that suits your skin type.

Many barbers rejoiced when shaving with a straight razor was banned in the mid-80s, after the country learned about AIDS.

Some hairdressing salons continued to use this tool even after the ban (as now!), but when they accidentally found out about it, they scolded it.

Slowly, close shaving has turned into a status service for real men with big wallets.

Now they shave with a straight razor with replaceable blades that do not carry infection. Some regular customers keep their personal shaving kits with permanent blades in their hairdressers.

Shaving process, preparatory work

The procedure consists of several sequential operations and includes: preparatory work, shaving and final work.

Preparatory work

These include:

• disinfection of instruments,

• hand washing,
• covering the client with a napkin,
• preparing soap foam (usually shaving cream is used),
• straightening razors

It should be remembered that good razor edit is the main condition for successful completion of the procedure.

Important to know

Before shaving, the barber must pay attention to the condition of the visitor’s skin. If a skin disease is detected in a visitor, you need to carefully examine the affected area and, if necessary, immediately send the client to a doctor.

A careful examination of the skin is necessary for another reason. Each person's appearance has its own characteristics. So, many people have irregularities on the skin of their face and head, both of natural origin (due to protruding bones, moles, etc.) and acquired (scars, cicatrices, etc.).

Therefore, in order not to cut the skin during shaving, it is necessary to remove soap suds from the largest growths (the most dangerous when shaving).

Shaving process step by step

• Applying soap lather (or shaving cream) to the face and head.

1. Shaving cream is applied to the face with circular movements of the brush in a clockwise direction in the following sequence: the chin area is treated first, then the right side of the face to the temple.
2. When moving the brush from the temple back to the chin, it is necessary to treat the submandibular cavity.
3. Next, the cream is applied to the left side of the face in the same order as on the right side of the face.
4. The cream is applied to the mustache last. In this case, you need to ensure that the cream does not get on your lips or nose. This part of the work is done with the end of the brush and only one side of it.

• Shave the first time (along the direction of hair growth).

• Secondary application of soap foam or cream.

• Shave a second time (against the direction of hair growth).

Shaving the face for the second time should also begin on the right side of the face, the direction is from the neck up to the line of the edging of the temple and to the middle of the chin.

Shaving the left side of the face, as well as the right, should start from the neck up to the line of the temple and to the middle of the chin. In the area from the neck to the middle of the chin, the razor is held with the second stroke, and to the line of the edging of the temple - with the first stroke.

• The remaining areas of the face are treated a second time in the same direction and in the same sequence as when treated the first time.
• After shaving, it is necessary to remove any remaining cream from the treated areas of the skin. To do this, usually use a sterile cloth moistened with warm water, or wash the treated areas of the skin with water.

Repeatedly running the razor over the same area of ​​the head or face can cause skin irritation or redness. If for any reason irritation occurs, you should immediately disinfect the area with alcohol or cologne.

• Final work after shaving includes: removing residual soap suds from the treated area of ​​the head or face and removing napkins. Other operations (applying a hot compress, refreshing with cologne, etc.) are performed only at the request of the visitor.

How to shave with a straight razor - video with master class:

Care of a straight razor, editing

Straightening a razor on a belt is done with the same movements as grinding on a whetstone. The significant difference is that the razor is moved forward along the belt not with the cutting edge, as when grinding on a whetstone, but with the edge.

When the razor moves along the belt with the cutting edge forward, its tip can damage the belt.

• The number of reciprocating movements of the razor on the belt ranges on average from 10 to 20.
• To remove large rashes from the razor tip, first use a canvas belt, after which it is finally straightened with a leather belt.

After straightening the razor on the belt, check the degree of its sharpness. Under a microscope, the tip of a well-directed razor has many small, almost identical and regular-shaped protrusions and indentations (notches). The latter are so small that they cannot be seen with the naked eye.

In a hairdressing salon, the sharpness of the razor is checked as follows: take one hair with the thumb and forefinger of the left hand and try to cut it off above the fingers with the razor. If it is easily cut, the razor is aimed well, if it is difficult to cut, it needs to be adjusted on the belt.

Depending on the shape of the working surface distinguish between razors with deep and shallow radius dart.

• The deeper the groove, the thinner the cutting edge, and vice versa, a razor with a shallow radius groove has a thicker cutting edge.
• A razor with a thin cutting edge is easier to shave and requires less sharpening, while a razor with a thicker cutting edge is very difficult to strop and requires more frequent sharpening.

Editing a straight razor on a belt - video:

After repeatedly straightening the razor on any belt (canvas or leather), its surface becomes covered with metal dust and other contaminants and requires cleaning.

If there is mastic on the belt, scrape it off, and the belt is washed with soapy water, wiped and dried.

The high pace of life of a modern man forces him to distribute his time literally by the minute. The more we appreciate the moments when we can, left alone with ourselves, relax and devote some time to ourselves.

Classic straight razor shaving combines elements of relaxation, massage and work on your image. Anyone can master the technique of the cleanest shave, which has returned to fashion, because 80-85 years ago all men shaved this way.

Shaving in English You will need the following tools and accessories:

1. Razor. For men with thick and coarse stubble, it is recommended to use 2 blades per shave.
2. . Badger hair is considered the softest and therefore the best material for a brush. Boar bristles take second place, but are more suitable for solid soap. Synthetic bristles can create static tension, causing slight irritation to the skin.
3. Grindstone, made of abrasive material, used to sharpen a classic razor blade.
4. Leather belt used to straighten the cutting edge of the blade and give it maximum sharpness and smoothness.
5. or shaving cream. It is better to choose a special soap for classic shaving, natural, without dyes. Gels and foams from a spray can are not recommended for use in this case - they do not produce foam of sufficient density.
6. A bowl or mug for soaking the brush. It is better to take it from unbreakable material, with a capacity of 200-250 ml.
7. Towel. Soft, clean, made of natural cotton.
8. Hydrogen peroxide or powder to stop bleeding.
9. Hot water. It is better to use boiled water, as it is softer than tap water.

Important! Don't waste money on quality tools and accessories: they will last longer and the results will be better.

A little theory

Carefully preparing your face will make it easier for the blade to glide across your skin and cut through stubble cleanly. The sharpness of the razor, smooth movements, and the absence of pressure on it are the key to a high-quality retro shave without cuts and.

Try to shave wide stripes and carefully stretch the skin, helping yourself with your tongue and facial muscles.

To position your hand, you can first practice on flat areas of the face. Treat your cheeks with a blade razor, and the rest of your face with a safety razor until you feel confident and precise in your movements.

Did you know? The great rulers Peter I and Alexander the Great required their subjects to shave their faces. Alexander believed that it was easy to grab a soldier by the beard in battle, and did not start a battle without shaving, and Peter I, in addition to his personal example, introduced a high tax on beards in 1722.

Features of hair growth

On different parts of the face and neck, hair grows with different densities and in different directions. It is important to consider these two points when preparing and during the shaving process.

The thicker and tougher the beard, the more thoroughly you need to steam and lather your face. Traditional shaving allows you to cut hairs cleaner, so stubble does not appear as quickly.

Did you know? If a man never shave in his life, the length of his beard can reach 8 meters.

How to hold a razor correctly

Shaving technology provides 3 ways to hold a bladed razor for work in different areas.

The methods vary:

• blade direction- down or up;
• turning angle razors relative to the wrist;
• position of the little finger on the tail of the instrument.

The shaving guard is held by the neck with the thumb, index and middle fingers, and the heel of the razor is secured with the little finger.

Anyway You need to hold the instrument firmly, but without much tension in your fingers.
The main movements are performed by the middle and inner part of the blade, as they are better controlled by the fingers than the head.

Skin stretching

For a clean hair cut the skin should be well stretched. To do this, use the index or middle finger of the free hand to tighten the skin in the direction opposite to the movement of the razor, retreating 2-3 cm. The fingers are placed on an area of ​​skin free of soap suds. Excess foam is removed with the back of the razor.

Shaving technique

The technique of shaving with a straight razor involves two passes for each area of ​​the face:

• by hair growth;
• against hair growth.

If the stubble is hard and thick, during repeated shaving, another movement is performed: first in the transverse direction, then against the growth.

Movements should be light and rhythmic, performed through movements of the hand, and not the entire arm.

Before running the blade over the skin for the first time and after each subsequent one, wipe it on both sides with alcohol.

The angle of inclination of the razor relative to the skin surface is 20-30°.

Did you know? Some women are impressed by a masculine face with some roughness on the cheeks. To create such a brutal effect, you can skip the stage of shaving across and against hair growth.

How to properly shave with a close shave

Shaving with a straight razor requires concentration, a steady hand and Olympian calm. To acquire good skills you will need constant practice. Prepare everything you need in advance, try not to be distracted by anything.

Preparation

It is better to shave after a shower or bath - warm, moist air will help your pores open better.

Small a towel is soaked in hot water, apply to the lower part of the face and neck, leave until cool. For hard stubble, apply this hot compress twice.

In a mug of hot water soak the bristles of the shaving brush, then change the water.

The foam is whipped either in a circle or on a soaped face, moving from the center to the ears. The foam should be thick, dense, hold its shape and not spread. After 3-5 minutes you can start shaving. If the foam dries out during this time, it is applied again.

Process

Shaving start according to hair growth, from the line of the temple edging from the side of the working hand. The skin is pulled a little higher with the second hand.

The razor is placed flat on the skin, blade down, its back raised to the desired angle. The instrument is moved from top to bottom from the temple, along the outer part of the lower jaw to the middle of the cheek, not forgetting to stretch the skin.

Having followed the hair growth of the cheeks to the corner of the mouth, having shaved the ear pads, move on to the convex part of the chin. It is shaved from the bottom to the hollow separating the lower lip.

Next, the upper lip is shaved., very carefully moving the razor from top to bottom. Then the skin is treated along and under the lower jaw, in the direction from the middle of the chin to the ear, trying to leave as little untreated surface on the neck as possible.

The neck is shaved with movements from bottom to top, from the side to the Adam's apple. In the same sequence, a pass is made along the hair growth on the second half of the face. Make sure all hairs are cut off on the first pass.

Important! Particular care must be taken when working with a razor near the nose, earlobe, Adam's apple and where the skin forms folds.

On the second pass against hair growth the face is again thoroughly covered with soap foam. If necessary, change the blade.

The razor slides from bottom to top, against hair growth. The movement begins from the neck under the ear, moving to the outer part of the lower jaw and to the area under the temples.

Then shave the middle part of the cheek, lower jaw, chin, upper and lower lip, changing the direction of movement of the razor to horizontal.

The neck is shaved with vertical movements, from the Adam's apple to the side surfaces, against hair growth.

You can watch this video on how to properly shave with a straight razor:

Skin care after the procedure

After finishing shaving, face wash with cold water. This will refresh the skin and close the pores.

After patting your face with a dry, clean towel, apply lotion or lotion appropriate to your skin type.

Rules for the use and storage of a straight razor

It sounds paradoxical, but A sharp razor is safer for shaving than a dull one. A well-sharpened blade glides without pressure and causes less damage to the skin. The blade must be regularly sharpened, edited, and oiled.

Having finished shaving, instruments are washed from foam and hair residues.

The brush is dried, shaking it off and hanging it with the lint down.

Drops of water from the razor are carefully wiped away paper napkin.

Apply oil to a dry blade.

The razor should be stored in a case, outside the bathroom and places with high humidity.

Precautions

1. Don't try to catch a falling razor.
2. You can only carry and move with a closed razor.
3. If your hands are shaking, it is better to use a safety razor.
4. Do not use a blade with defects in the cutting edge.

Important! Close the blade if something distracts you from shaving: during conversations, forgetting and waving your hand, you can cause serious cuts.

A properly shaved man's face remains smooth, attractive and fresh longer. A royal shave is, without a doubt, something that a modern man can afford.