The straight razor is the only item for shaving men that was used from the beginning to this day. If machines, razors and other methods of depilation provoke severe skin irritation, then after using a straight razor the risks of such consequences are almost zero. Therefore, this tool is popular among experienced barbers and hairdressers, as well as among men themselves.

A straight razor requires certain rules and regulations for maintenance, as well as regular sharpening, since razor blades must be as sharp as possible. Few men know how to sharpen a razor and with what tools to do it. Therefore, before you start using such a shaving tool, it is advisable to familiarize yourself with the rules for sharpening, straightening and caring for a straight razor.

Straightening and sharpening a straight razor are two different processes, since in the case of sharpening, a layer of metal on the blades is removed, and when straightening, the area from the presence of irregularities in the metal and burrs of the tip is polished. A straight razor is kept in the required condition using a sharpening belt, stones, sandpaper or special sandpaper. A man can learn how to sharpen a straight razor theoretically or visually through video reviews.

Belt

To sharpen my razor I use two types of belts: hanging belts or belts with wooden handles. But the first option is more popular, since it allows you to independently adjust the stretch. You need to select a belt so that its width completely covers the blade, and leave some extra margin. Straps with wooden handles are popular among beginners because they are already fixed and have one tension level.

For reference! If a stone was used to sharpen straight razor blades, then a straight razor strop should be used in conjunction with a special protective paste. There are types of belts on sale that are already equipped with paste.

With the help of a belt, a man can learn how to shave a straight razor. These belts typically have leather on one side and fine-grain fabric on the other. Straightening with a belt is carried out under strict control of the tension and angle of the functional surface.

Use the belt to straighten a straight razor as follows:

1. First you need to place the wide side of the razor blade on the surface;
2. Along the ridge side, the blade should be positioned forward;
3. It is prohibited to press on the blade, as this may cause the edge to bend;
4. When the editing reaches the extreme point, it is necessary to do the same manipulations as in the second paragraph of the instructions, but in the opposite direction.
5. All movements must be sedate so as not to injure yourself with the blade or damage the integrity of the leather of the belt.

Expert opinion

Alexey Strizhnikov

Barber, expert on men's haircuts

Typically, 50 leather trims are made to straighten a straight razor, as well as 15 fabric trims. A specialist should apply the paste to protect the belt; for beginners, it is advisable to buy ready-made belts with such paste.

Stone

Only experts know exactly how to sharpen razor blades with a stone. Additionally, most dangerous facial hair removers are sharpened during production. If the blades become dull, the use of a belt is usually implied. But if the razor blade has been damaged and damaged during use, a sharpening stone may still be useful.

Have you sharpened a straight razor before?

YesNo

Many companies sell stones; they differ in materials of manufacture and principle of operation. The most popular today are synthetic stones with reasonable prices and excellent quality of work. When using a stone, it is important to remember that razor blades are very sensitive to any rough mechanical influences; an incorrect vector of movement and sharpening angle with a stone can cause the formation of scratches, nicks and irregularities.

Restoring the sharpness and smooth surface of the blades using a stone is carried out as follows:

• First, the stone needs to be moistened with water.
• You need to hold the razor with your thumb and forefinger.
• You need to simultaneously pinch the comb and the end of the blade with your fingers.
• To sharpen, you need to run the razor along the stone itself.
• At the end of the stone, the razor must be turned over, pressed with the other side according to the second point of the instructions and repeat the movements according to the fourth point.

When sharpening with a stone, it is necessary to turn the blade of a straight razor over the comb only, so as not to damage it.

The sharpening angle during work must be stable and constant so as not to damage the integrity of the metal. If a water stone is used, the instructions for sharpening the razor suggest the following rules:

• the pressing force should be small;
• the entire plane of the razor should be in contact with the surface of the stone;
• moving the razor blade along the stone, the degree of pressure should be stable;
• The comb of the blade is wrapped with electrical tape so as not to damage it with a stone.

Few people can get used to sharpening a razor with a stone the first time; it takes time to perfect the effort. A good sharpening stone should hold its shape, not release a large volume of suspension, and have a uniform structure with fine grain and no lumps. The size of the stone before sharpening it yourself should ideally be 50x150.

Other materials

Straight razor blades can be straightened and sharpened using other tools, such as sandpaper or sandpaper. These are the most popular materials used by beginners in such matters. The method of using sandpaper for sharpening is similar to the principle of using a belt, since choosing the appropriate grain of paper is quite problematic. The arsenal for using such devices is simple - water, sandpaper or sandpaper, a flat surface.

Take it for sharpening or sharpen it yourself: all the pros and cons

Only an experienced specialist knows for sure how to sharpen a straight razor and how to do it correctly so that the blades are sharp and retain their original appearance. If a man does not have the skills to work with sharpening devices, it is better to seek help from a specialist. Most often, this solution is resorted to when adjusting the belt does not produce results.

Advice! Today, modern specialists in sharpening and straightening straight razors carry out various hardware procedures. The most effective and safest way is to sharpen a razor with a laser sharpening.

Not every man knows how to sharpen and straighten a straight razor blade with a stone. Therefore, if you lack the skills and knowledge of how to restore the former appearance and sharpness of the blade with a stone, it is better to contact a specialist. With your own efforts, it is much easier to adjust the sharpness of the razor with a belt, as well as with other materials, such as sandpaper. Such work is less risky in terms of the degree of injury to the razor.

How to store a straight razor?

Only with proper care can a man protect his straight razor from rust, dulling of the blade and a decrease in its functionality. A straight razor is a very delicate item that requires special care. After performing manipulations with the razor, it must be rinsed under running water and blotted with a cloth or paper towel to remove any remaining moisture.

You need to store the razor in a ventilated and dry room so that the metal can rest. If a straight razor will be used extremely rarely, paraffin oil should be applied to its blade to protect it from rust. For daily shaving with such a tool, experts advise having several sets so as not to wear out one razor with constant manipulation.

Why is razor care so important?

As mentioned earlier, a straight razor is a vulnerable and sensitive device that can suffer from any mechanical impact. The razor therefore requires special care and careful use so that the blades remain sharp and functional for as long as possible. A good straight razor will serve a man for decades, during which time the razor will need to be lubricated, sharpened and trimmed.

Experts note that the metal of a straight razor needs rest. Therefore, it is not recommended to use the razor daily. Metal should be stored in a place with a low percentage of humidity; the bathroom is absolutely not suitable for this. Humid air and frequent contact with water lead to metal oxidation and rust. It is not recommended to drop the razor, as this compromises the integrity of the blade.

Conclusion

Not every man can sharpen a straight razor with his own hands, so valuable shaving tools are often handed over to craftsmen for sharpening and straightening. They know for sure which belt and stone to use to restore the sharpness of the blade, which side of the belt to edit the razor on, and also how to align and improve the appearance of the razor. Even the average man can get used to such tasks if he strictly follows the instructions.

Straight razors have been used for centuries. Previously, these cutting products looked quite primitive. Since the 18th century, they have improved their design, which is familiar to modern consumers. At that time, according to experts, the “danger”, as it is also called, was the only and extremely effective shaving tool. In the 20th century, safety razors and electric razors appeared, and therefore “fears” faded into the background. However, they have not disappeared completely and are used today by many classic connoisseurs. Judging by numerous reviews, “fears” have recently returned from hairdressing practice, where they especially took root, into the sphere of household use. It has become fashionable to shave with them. Many brutal men choose this option. This explains why many are interested in how to sharpen a straight razor at home? You will learn how to do this from this article.

What is the essence of the procedure?

During frequent use, the guard may become dull. There are times when it falls on a hard surface and becomes bent. As a result, you will have to edit its cutting edge. This process does not involve sharpening it, but only aligning the metal edges and eliminating minor defects. If they are significant, then you will have to use sharpening stones. For those who do not know how often to sharpen a straight razor, experts recommend doing this every time before use.

About aiming straps

Before sharpening a straight razor on a belt, you should acquire the appropriate tool. Specialized stores sell hanging belts and those with wooden handles. In addition, these products can have different widths. It is chosen taking into account the length of the blade. This is necessary for uniform treatment of the entire surface of the “danger”.

Belts are also available in leather and fabric. There is no abrasive composition for these products. Some samples are coated with a special coating at the factory. Such belts are no longer intended for aiming, but for sharpening. Such products are used in cases where conventional editing does not bring results.

Belt preparation

You need to work on a clean and smooth leather (no paste) or fabric belt with minimal grain. If stains are found on the surface, they should be cleaned. All other defects are sanded down. Before you begin, carefully rub the surface with your palm to make it perfectly smooth.

About storage rules

Pasted belts should be stored separately from clean belts. It is undesirable for abrasive to come into contact with a clean blade or for pastes with different grain sizes to be mixed. In addition, these products can become deformed and therefore cannot be twisted or folded. Otherwise, wrinkles and folds will form on their surface, which will be impossible to eliminate in the future. Belts should also be protected from dust. Special covers are provided precisely for this purpose. Judging by numerous consumer reviews, straightening belts should not be kept in a room with high humidity levels.

How to straighten a cutting edge?

The procedure for straightening a straight razor using a belt is as follows:

• Take the “caution” by the “shin” and hold it with your fingers on the back side.
• The belt is securely fastened and kept taut. It should be parallel to the floor.
• The cutting part is laid flat and pulled along the belt with a “comb”. Do not press too hard, otherwise the blade will bend and the end of the razor edge will not contact the belt.
• When you reach the very edge, carefully turn the “danger” over. This needs to be done from the butt side. If you flip over the point, you will simply cut the belt or bend the edge. As a result, your razor will be ruined. There is no need to stop the tool at the edges. If you need to turn the blade, tear it off the surface, and then start touching the belt again while wiring.
• To sharpen the razor, you will have to perform an average of 30 passes. Subsequent editing is not advisable, since the quality of the cut will remain the same.

If you are not satisfied with the achieved sharpness, use a special paste. With it, editing on the belt is limited to ten passes. It also happens that the quality of the cutting edge after processing on a paste coating leaves much to be desired. In this case, you will have to use stones. How to sharpen a straight razor on a stone? More on this below.

Stone selection

Before sharpening a straight razor at home, you need to purchase a stone with a uniform fine-grained surface of 4000/8000. There should be no dense lumps in the product. Preference should be given to those stones that retain their shape and do not release a suspension. According to experts, blade razors are delivered to the shelves with a ready-made factory sharpening. The owner only needs to regularly edit it, namely grind it away from burrs and correct minor irregularities. Belts are quite suitable for this procedure. If you need to remove part of the metal from the canvas, then sharpening stones are needed for this purpose.

How are stones checked?

In addition to the question of how to sharpen a straight razor, many beginners are interested in what tool will be needed in a particular case. Experts recommend doing this with a stone. To have an idea of ​​how to sharpen a straight razor, you should familiarize yourself with its geometric parameters. To do this, the “safety guard” is placed on a flat surface along with the butt and the inlet. Next, these places are checked for gaps. If the razor does not fit tightly to the surface, then you will have to use a coarse abrasive.

Progress

If you don't know how to properly sharpen a straight razor, here's what you need to do. First of all, wet the stone with water. Next, the edge of the blade and the ridge of the “guard” are pressed against the block using the index finger and thumb. To prevent the comb from being scratched, experts recommend sealing it with insulating tape. Do not press too hard. The main thing is that the plane of the cutting product is in constant contact with the surface of the sharpening stone and at a constant angle. Only in this way will it be possible to sharpen the razor evenly.

Approaching the edge, the product is turned over to the other side through the ridge. Next, the other side performs a passage in the opposite direction. The procedure is repeated until the desired effect is achieved.

Judging by the reviews, the question of how to sharpen a straight razor is not the only one that interests many modern consumers. Often beginners do not know how to properly use and store the “danger”. According to experts, the metal of the razor is susceptible to oxidation and corrosion.

Therefore, after use, the product must be washed in a soapy solution and wiped dry with a cloth. If you become the owner of a used razor, then you should wipe it with a soft cloth, which has been previously moistened with alcohol. Sudden temperature changes are not advisable for “dangers”. Products cannot be disinfected using boiling water and acids. It is best to store the razor in a dry, well-ventilated area. If you are not going to use the “danger” in the near future, then treat it with paraffin or oil. The service life of a razor directly depends on its storage conditions and careful handling of the product. It is important to prevent the razor from falling onto hard surfaces or from allowing the cutting edge to come into contact with other objects. Otherwise, defects will appear on the blade, which will negatively affect the quality of the shave. A straight razor should only be used for its intended purpose.

Finally

For those who are interested in how to sharpen a straight razor, but do not feel confident in their abilities, it is better to take the cutting product to a specialized workshop. The fact is that sharpening with stones is quite effective, but at the same time a complex procedure. If, despite your lack of experience, you intend to manage it on your own, then it’s better for you, just in case, to acquire not one bar, but several at once.

Sharpening a straight razor is an excellent training ground for learning all the principles of sharpening, no matter what kind of tool.

It is the razor that provides the most intimate and direct experience of the edge.

1. Geometry evaluation
2. Geometry correction
3. Sharpening
4. Finishing
5. Edit
6. Checking the razor sharpness

1. Geometry assessment

Before sharpening a straight razor, you need to evaluate its geometry. This is necessary in order to better understand how to sharpen it and what stones you should start working on: coarser or smaller ones.

You can evaluate the geometry of the razor by placing it on a parallel plate or simply on a flat surface, such as a piece of glass. It is necessary to place it so that the razor leads and its edge lie on the plate. Now we can notice how tightly the razor lies without gaps on the edge and back. In this case, we are lucky and have little work to do, and we can start working on a 1000# stone, unless there is damage to the edge in the form of chips or a “reverse smile”.

It is also very common that the razor lead does not completely adhere to the plane, in which case we will have to, if possible, eliminate this drawback using a larger abrasive. We should not forget that after looking at the razor on one side, you need to look at the other.

It is also necessary to check the presence of a straight line on the edge or the presence of a correct smile. A violation of geometry is the so-called “reverse smile”. This geometry will not allow us to properly sharpen the cutting edge and must be corrected.

2. Geometry correction

Reverse smile and chips are removed with sweeping movements on a coarse abrasive or on sandpaper lying on a plane, for example on glass. You can find out more about this in the video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gsqyvqts_eU&feature=player_embedded there at 2.17 minutes fan (fly) movements are shown

3. Sharpening

Sharpening is carried out on a stone with a grain size of 800-1000 grit. The main task of this stage is to form the inlets and make sure that the marks from the abrasive reach the edge along the entire inlet on each side. Without fulfilling this requirement, further work on the razor will be practically useless. Don't forget that the stone for sharpening razors should be .

The edge of the razor should lie on the stone and be in the same plane as the cutting edge. The razor is sharpened with the cutting edge forward. The razor should always be turned over only through the spine. At this stage, you can work with either one or two hands.

When sharpening, the razor should be at an angle to the direction line so that there is no wobbling when sharpening, and hence an involuntary tilt. Movements must be controlled throughout the entire length of the passage, just as the force must be constant throughout the entire length of the stroke and removed only when it comes to a complete stop.

A straight razor has elastic blades and requires special pressure control. The pressure force when sharpening should decrease both when moving from coarse grain to fine grain, and at the beginning and end of work on each whetstone. This is due to the fact that the thickness of the razor blade is very thin and when you press on it, the edge itself bends and you are already processing the edge of the transition from the groove to the inlet, increasing its width and grinding off the butt and almost not processing the edge itself. As the force decreases, you process the cutting edge. The pressure of the RC to the abrasive is carried out by circularly turning the blade by the handle around its axis; it should be optimal and gradually decrease towards the end of processing on the abrasive.
The second force - the force of movement along the abrasive must act and be directed strictly parallel to the working surface of the abrasive.
Thus, there should actually be no pressure on the butt, but only touching, to maintain the angle.

To control sharpening, it is highly advisable to use optical control means. For some, a magnifying glass with x10 magnification is enough, for others it is more convenient to use Chinese microscopes

It is necessary to ensure that the marks along the entire length of the approach extend to the cutting edge. The width of the leads can have different widths, this is determined only by the geometry of the razor from the manufacturer, but the marks must extend to the edge along the entire length, only then can you switch to a finer abrasive.

4. Finishing(in metalworking), finishing, finishing processing of parts in order to obtain precise dimensions (class 1 and above) and a clean surface corresponding to classes 10-14, as well as grinding one part to another.

I would like to draw your attention to the fact that by this stage sharpening should already be completed, that is, the marks should be uniform and extend to the cutting edge along the entire length of the approaches. Remember abrasive hygiene. When switching to another, finer abrasive stone, rinse the razor.

Finishing is carried out on stones with a grain size of 3000 - 4000 grit and then finer abrasives are used. Very often, many practitioners move after stones of 3000 - 8000 grit to further finishing on natural abrasive stones ( , "Gusevsky" and other shales,). These stones have long been considered the best for finishing razors and are often called razor stones. Some people remain committed to using synthetic abrasive stones when finishing their razors. Everyone chooses for himself those methods of sharpening and finishing, the results and speed of work with which he is most satisfied. There is an opinion that natural abrasive stones allow you to achieve a more comfortable shave than artificial ones.

I would especially like to draw attention to. with use, it allows you to reduce sharpening time even more, reduce the sharpening of the razor, and get a more durable edge, since they do not leave behind deep scratches and at the same time remove scratches from previous stones well and quickly. In addition, it is very interesting and fascinating.

The movements can be circular with a small radius and X-shaped, you can alternate: after working in a circular motion, then work in an X-shaped manner and move on to the next finer-grained stone. When finishing, you should try to use only one hand, since it is able to feel pressure much more subtly, which is critical at this stage. It is not advisable to work with two hands, since it is almost impossible to control the minimum pressure.

If you control the process of sharpening/finishing in magnification and tactilely on the “rash”, then it is quite possible to select this optimal pressure or not pressure, based on the geometry of the razor, the area of ​​​​processing with each subsequent pebble - whether or not it works on the RK, based on the elasticity of a particular razor . It is necessary to ensure that each stone reaches the edge, and at the same time not force the supply to bend in the opposite direction due to excess pressure. By controlling the process, choosing pressure is not so difficult. Exactly the optimal one. But at the last stages of work, it is usually minimal and often less than the weight of the razor itself. Otherwise, it is impossible to achieve high sharpness and homogeneity of the paint, as well as long-term durability.

5. Editing

Editing is carried out on a clean belt; it is advisable that it be a special belt for straightening, and not just any one that comes to hand. There are straight razor users who use belts with various pastes, of which there are quite a few types. Whether to use a pasted belt or not is up to you, we can only add that a properly sharpened razor only needs a clean belt without pastes.

The razor is moved along the belt with the butt forward

“2. How to rule.
If the sling slacks under the cutting edge when straightening the razor (see Figure 1), you will quickly collapse the cutting edge, and the razor will very quickly become dull. If the strop slacks under the back of the razor when editing the razor (see Figure 2), the cutting edge will move along the plane, you will get a very sharp edge.”
***

6. Checking the sharpness of the razor

A razor is considered sharp when it can cut hair “in weight,” that is, with a light touch. This is determined as follows: take one hair with the thumb and index finger of the left hand and cut it with a razor above the fingers (Fig.). If the hair cuts easily, the razor is sharp.

The sharpness of a razor can also be determined on paper: thin tissue paper is folded and held with the index and thumb of the left hand; in the right hand, hold the razor away from you and, without pressure, move along the fold of the paper (Fig.). If the paper cuts easily, the razor is sharp; if it is difficult to cut, it is dull; if it cuts with a rustling sound, there is a rash on the razor.

These are methods that visually allow you to evaluate the sharpness of the razor, but you should not forget that the hair varies greatly in thickness and all this is very conditional.

What is a sharp razor? According to Dmitrich ( Vladimir Dmitrievich Vasiliev) the razor should be sharp enough to gently and pleasantly remove the foam along with the stubble so that in one pass of the razor the skin is perfectly clean in this area if you run your hand over this area of ​​skin in the same direction.

An example of sharpening a Kamisori straight razor from oldTor

Continuing tests with a Japanese razor. A short set of abrasives and finishing on Yellow coticule.

Sharpening and finishing were carried out with a minimum set of stones. I used the Japanese combined synthetic water guide Suehiro 1000\3000 grit, and then finished the razor with the Belgian Yellow coticule:

Of the many Belgians that I have tried, this one is one of the most successful, it’s just a pity that it is quite small - the size of a cigarette pack. A pebble “in condition,” as I call it, quite finely smoothed from working with razors. Depending on the pressure, working along or across the structure, the amount of water, it gives a sufficient palette of subtle nuances when finishing on it. In general, I have an old Belgian that works no less finely, but the nature of the adhesion of the leads on it is somewhat different, and it is a little more inclined to lens the edge, and it releases a light, barely noticeable suspension much more readily - in this case it seemed to me more relevant to use not it .
So, on the Suehiro 1000th side I sharpened, on the 3000th side I worked, varying the amount of suspension or removing it altogether, incl. depending on which side of the razor I processed - when sharpening such razors, one should take into account the difference in the contact patch on different sides and the features of their interaction with the abrasive. Actually, this can be seen on any individual side - the difference in the surface of the sharpened part of the butt and the chamfer:

Of course, for the sake of aesthetics, it would be possible to take a coarser Belgian, for example Yellow “remake” from “Ardennese Koticul”, and more thoroughly clean the leads from the marks of 3000-nickel, and then choose what stone to use for the finish, but I was interested in doing exactly that the shortest set of stones, besides, I’ve already done a lot of finishes on such razors (and this one in particular), and Guanxi, and Nakayama, and Thuringian slate, and Arkansas - it was time to try the Belgian. Finally, I made 40 passes per side on a clean horse belt and was done. I was pleased with the result./oldTor / 01-06-2013 18:22/ http://forum.guns.ru/forum_light_message/224/988330.html/

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And another example of sharpening a straight razor on Japanese stones

... I continued testing nagura on razors
Very cool, I like it, I’m ready to say that this method seems to me the fastest and most convenient. I really don’t know how quickly I could do this and so conveniently for myself if I had not previously acquired considerable experience in sharpening razors in other ways.
Today I tried this set of stones and nagura:

Moreover, curiously, I used mejiro on both stones)
First I used botan on softer stone, then tenjo. This pebble managed to be smoothed out a little and stopped giving its suspension unless it was specifically directed - although on the botan it seemed to me that there was a slight mixing of the suspensions, but on the tenjo I did not observe this moment (although I directed it with very light, neat movements) . Then on the same stone I used mejiro, it turned out like this:

According to the results of previous tests of this stone with and without its own suspension, the result was clearly cleaner and more uniform, which was one of the confirmations for me that it was the mejiro suspension that mainly worked. By the way, after this RK was already cutting hair from the beard (after tenjo she only removed shavings from the hair). By the way, in the photo you can see a slightly noticeable “step” in increasing the angle, made by a sharp decrease in pressure towards the end of the work. To better assess the scale, I took a photo of a hair lying on a chamfer:

Next, I used mejiro on Nakayama. By the way, on average, the working time on each suspension was about 3 minutes, and the work scenario in terms of movements, the sequence of their shifts, etc., was the same.

So, after mejiro on Nakayama it turned out like this:

The quality of the hair cutting grew by weight, and actually I no longer saw the point in switching to koma-nagura. But it was boring to go straight to a clean stone) So I tried one tomo-nagura, kindly lent by Nikolai K., on which, fortunately it is not small, I already managed to finish one knife made of hard carbon the other day - I really liked it. Well, I applied the suspension, it was difficult to apply, it was very thin and light, I worked the same three minutes on it, and then made 30 passes per side on a clean pebble. This is how it happened:

The hair cut test is wonderful) The shave is great!

In general, I really liked everything - obviously, working for Nagura is “mine”» /oldTor/

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We express our deep gratitude to all participants of the forum.guns.ru forum who took part in the discussion of topics on sharpening straight razors. Live communication, the experience of the participants, all this is a real storehouse of knowledge, one might say an encyclopedia on sharpening straight razors. We especially want to thank the participants under the nicknames: dmitrichW, 1shiva, oldTor, Bwman, Nikolay_K, wren, ivan-3, vlad-kram, Tras Krom and others.

About sharpening razors...

From the very beginning of threads on sharpening straight razors on the forums, I didn’t attach much importance to this, I thought it wasn’t that serious and the vest maxes would completely ruin the good old fears and my knowledge in this area would be of no interest to anyone, but I repent and am glad that I was wrong.

When I was a freshman, in the early 70s of the last century, during a one-year advanced training course on setting up and conducting an experiment, they began to teach me how to sharpen almost all tools, the masters, who were already nearly 80 years old at that time, learned how to sharpen blades, they started with sharpening a straight razor. Then we realized that this can be said to be the basis for understanding the process of sharpening blades in general - it teaches you to feel the RK when sharpening. I didn’t write or talk about this, sorry, I thought the guys wouldn’t understand me when I said that you need to learn how to sharpen knives by sharpening them carefully. Nikolai seems to understand.

With great respect to you, Dmitrich (Vladimir Dmitrievich Vasiliev)

Video on sharpening straight razors from Yaroslav aka oldTor

Working on Japanese natural stones with nagura
Part 1
Part 2

A.P. Kharitonchuk. Installation and repair of household metal products. Graduate School. 1978

Konstantinov A.V. How to become a hairdresser. M.: Azbuka, 1993

Video on sharpening straight razors on Japanese stones http://www.youtube.com/watch?http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nBeifcKyKqo
Straight razor sharpening video from Lynn Abrams, founder of http://straightrazorplace.com/
Lynn Abrams - World of Straight Razor Shaving

We plan to soon prepare an article on advanced sharpening of straight razors and the selection of stones for sharpening straight razors.

Sincerely, Site Administration

Shaving is carried out in different ways - with disposable machines, etc. It is with the last tool that you can achieve maximum quality and smooth skin that is impossible to achieve with other methods. But working with it is not easy and, as its name implies, dangerous. In some countries, hairdressers need a special certificate to use this tool.

The straight razor is a classic of the stylist genre

Conditions for a good shave - good sharpening

The basis of a good close shave is a sharp razor. It must be made of durable metal and not have bends or deformations. It is important to maintain its maximum sharpness. If it is not sharpened too well, it will become difficult for the master to work with it. To obtain a high-quality result, you will have to hold it at a very sharp angle to the skin.

This leads to discomfort and irritation in the client. It also increases the likelihood of scratches. Therefore, entrust regular sharpening of your razor to a professional. He will not only sharpen it sharply and evenly, but also at the right angle.

Razor sharpness: you can change the blades, but it’s better to sharpen them correctly

To understand whether your tool is well sharpened or whether it has become dull during operation, you need to know a few rules.

1. The sharpness of the razor cannot be checked visually;
2. The test is popular. The razor is fixed on. Hair falls smoothly and softly onto it from above, perpendicular to the blade. If it only touched the blade, but broke into two parts, then the sharpening was done correctly;
3. Experienced craftsmen can check the sharpness with their finger, but this method is not recommended for beginners, since cuts cannot be avoided.

You need to shave a straight razor using a belt using a special paste. At the same time, you need to hold it at a certain angle to the belt.

This is a rather complex and specific process. But every master should learn it, since straightening a straight razor with a large flow of clients must be done quite often.

WATCH VIDEO INSTRUCTIONS

How to hold the instrument correctly

• Basic method. We hold the tool in the right hand (or left hand for left-handers). The blade faces down, the handle faces up. The thumb rests on the bottom of the razor, to the left of the cutting edge, closer to the heel. The little finger rests on the unsharpened edge, at the end of the razor, behind the junction with the case. The remaining fingers are on the unsharpened edge;
• Second method. We take the instrument in our dominant hand. The blade is turned up, the handle is turned down. The little finger is under the tail, behind the screw securing it to the case. The thumb is on the inside of the unsharpened edge with notches, all other fingers are on the outside.

The second method is considered more convenient. But each master must choose it individually.

Inclination of bristles

All hair on the body grows at a certain angle to the surface of the skin. This angle is approximately equal for identical hairs growing on the same part of the body. This is an important fact to consider when shaving. In particular, when moving the razor, when tilting it and when stretching the skin.

Tensioning the leather belt

To shave properly with a straight razor, you need to know how to properly stretch the skin. It must be tightened every time the tool moves in the direction opposite to the movement of the blade. Place your finger 1.5 - 2 cm from the cutting edge and move it by pressing on the skin. Use the index finger of your non-dominant hand (i.e. the hand that is not holding the razor).

Tool angle: even if you have Solingen, the rules are the same for everyone

The instrument moves with the head forward, in short movements, strictly on the stretched area of ​​the skin. To keep the skin smooth and the quality of work high, hold the razor at an angle to the surface of the skin of 30 - 40 degrees. If the angle turns out to be even sharper, so much the better. Movements are smooth and frequent.

This shaving will take place with maximum comfort for the client and convenience for the master. This reduces the likelihood of scratches and injuries.

Correct shaving technique with a straight razor: instructions for men

You need to use a straight razor according to specific instructions. The face is processed in several stages, which must be followed. This will allow you to get the best result combined with speed of work and comfort for the client.

The instrument must be sterilized after use on a previous client and placed in a separate box. Before using it again, it must be treated with an antiseptic. Some craftsmen use antiseptic repeatedly during their work.

Before shaving

The beard or stubble is lathered with a shaving brush. The technician pours a glass of warm or hot water and places the razor there for a few seconds (the working surface of the tool). This is done so that it warms up and the manipulations do not cause discomfort, goosebumps or a desire to shudder in the client. All this interferes with the process.

It only takes a few seconds for the instrument to reach a comfortable temperature.

Shaving the right side

When learning to shave with a straight razor, it always starts on the right side of the client's face. Some masters start with the left, as it is more convenient for them.

• The first movement is directed from the temple down, parallel to the cheekbone;
• The second movement is along the angle of the lower jaw;
• The third is above the second, from the center of the cheek down towards the chin;
• Fourth - from the chin up to the lip;
• Fifth – three movements along the mustache area above the upper lip;
• The sixth is on the side of the lip, starts slightly to the right of the corner of the lips, moves towards the zone of the fifth movement;
• Seventh - from the chin to the corner of the lower jaw along the edge of the face;
• The eighth, ninth and tenth are three movements along the neck from top to bottom.

During the entire process, the skin of the face should stretch.

Shaving the left side

The technique of shaving with a straight razor involves a different way of working with the left side of the face. This is due to the fact that for most craftsmen their own hands greatly obscure their view.

1. The first movement is from the temple down, as on the right;
2. The second movement - on the cheek - is similar to the third on the right;
3. Third - three short movements above the upper lip;
4. Fourth - from the place to the right of the corner of the lips to the mustache area and from the same place down to the chin;
5. Fifth - a series of movements along the line of the lower jaw, from its angle to the chin;
6. Sixth – Along the chin to the lip, from bottom to top;
7. Seventh, eighth, ninth, tenth - a series of movements from the chin and jaw line down to the neck.

No matter how sharp the razor is, you will still be left with stubble residue. To eliminate them, shaving again is carried out against the growth.

Second phase

Starts on the right. The first movement is along the neck, closer to the ear, from bottom to top. The second is along the angle of the lower jaw to the temple. Third - from the jaw up. Fourth - from the jaw to the ear. Fifth - from the jaw to the chin. Next, the chin itself and the area on the side of it, towards the mustache line, are shaved. After this, shave the area under the lower lip and neck again, moving from bottom to top, i.e., against hair growth.

On the left, you also start from the neck. Then, in three movements from bottom to top, shave your cheek. The fifth movement starts from the corner of the lips down the chin, the sixth - from the same area up to the nose. Then the area under the lower lip and neck is shaved.

After the procedure

Wipe off any foam from the skin with a towel. Now wash your face with cool water. When skin is prone to irritation, use a warm compress with a damp towel for a few minutes.

Close shaving is a whole complex of events, be prepared for them

Now apply any aftershave care that suits your skin type.

The guard is considered a common shaving tool. Over time, the edge becomes dull. To restore the cutting part, sharpening of a straight razor is required. Before you start sharpening, you need to determine that the razor is really dull.

Straight razor

A decrease in blade sharpness is observed only in sharpened instruments. The sharpening process involves grinding the edge of the razor against an abrasive material. The result is a cutting edge. Dulling of the cutting part of the blade occurs when it is deformed. Reasons include:

• oxidation of the metal part;
• deformation of the crystal lattice when critical temperatures are reached;
• interaction with particles of the substance that needs to be cut.

Microscopic roughness clings to each other when shaving. As a result, the metal loses molecules when interacting with beard hair.

Sharpening requirements

A straight razor is sharpened at the factory during the manufacturing process. As a result of use, the blade must be corrected in a timely manner, and unevenness and burrs are removed. If a complex defect is observed, then it is necessary to use an abrasive material to remove the metal layer during sharpening.

Basic requirements for a sharpening stone for the correct sharpening angle of a straight razor:

• the surface of the abrasive material must have a uniform grain;
• resistance to shape retention when sharpening;
• isolation of suspensions in minimal quantities.

In order to edit the instrument, purchase a special belt. They can be made in the form of a leather band, as well as a fixed canvas with wood handles. When choosing the width, they are guided by the length of the working surface of the razor. This condition will allow you to process the entire blade at the same time.

It is necessary to apply a special abrasive paste to the surface of the belt if the straightening process does not lead to the expected results. Some materials may have paste from the manufacturer's factory.

Straight razor adjustment

Ways to do the job

In order to sharpen a straight razor, a master must have initial skill. The blade of the tool is sensitive; if there are errors in sharpening, chipping and microcracks may appear.

Using the belt

Using a belt, the straight razor blade is straightened. The device is made double-sided, with leather on one side and ordinary fabric on the other. Both sides have different abrasive grits. During the editing process, the master should perform 50 passes on the leather, and then 15 passes on the fabric. Observe the following sequence:

• the working surface is placed flat on the material;
• wiring is carried out with the ridge tissue forward in the direction of movement;
• bending the edge is avoided with slight pressure;
• Having reached the edge of the belt, repeat the movement in the opposite direction;
• all manipulations are carried out at low speed, otherwise the edge will become dull or the hand will be cut.

Sharpening with a belt

Sharpening with a stone

An abrasive stone is used in case of significant damage to the working edge of the blade. Frequent sharpening in this way will lead to premature wear of the metal. The master must adhere to the following instructions:

• the abrasive block is moistened with water;
• The razor is pressed on both sides with the index finger and thumb;
• the comb and the working surface are pressed against the stone at the same time;
• the tool is guided along the stone with the entire blade;
• at the extreme point of the bar, the razor is turned the other way and the opposite side is processed;

When processing, you must follow some rules:

• when moving, maintain the interaction of the entire plane of the blade with the bar with a small pressing force;
• maintain efforts for each party;
• To prevent damage, apply electrical tape to the comb.

How to choose a stone for sharpening a razor

The tool is sharpened during the manufacturing process, but processing can be carried out in a private workshop. This ensures the required sharpness of the working edge. This method is used if the blade defect is large - microcracks, burrs and chipping of the edge are observed.

There are many manufacturers, and each brand has different technical characteristics of the tool. Stones made from synthetic materials have high performance.

How to sharpen a straight razor

In order to sharpen a straight razor at home with your own hands, purchase a synthetic abrasive block. In this case, you will also need a belt for final editing, as well as finishing with paste during use. You can check the sharpness of the sharpening using the hair on your hands.

Stages of sharpening a guard

At home, the blade is sharpened in three stages:

1. Roughing is the finishing of the edge of the blade. In this case, violations of the geometry of the cutting part are restored. Chips, dents, as well as an increased radius in the cutting part are removed.
2. Bringing the edge of the blade to its intended shape. In this case, the exact dimensions of the cutting part are achieved, and microdamages from the first stage are also removed.
3. Straightening a straight razor to achieve a sharp blade.

Preparing to sharpen a straight razor

Blade care between sharpenings

Special tools require special care:

• After use, it is recommended to rinse the blade and then wipe dry with a cloth;
• must be stored in a dry place with ventilation, in the absence of moisture;
• if the tool is rarely used, the working surface should be coated with a paraffin compound;
• Frequent use will lead to premature wear of the cutting edge, in which case purchase a spare razor.

A straight razor must be handled with care and adjusted on a belt in a timely manner. Do not throw the tool or cut hard material.